Twisted copper ring.

 This ring is made with 10 gauge square copper wire. Because the wire is large, we must anneal the wire after each bending operation. To anneal the wire I heat it up with a torch until the wire is glowing a dull red. Allow it to turn dark the plunge into cool water to quench the metal. The result is a super soft flexible wire. To start the ring wrap it around the ring mandrel at any point that will give a pleasing circle.
 Next I turned the legs down and pulled them slightly apart. Anneal the wire and quench before moving forward

 Using parallel jaw pliers and an electric hand drill twist the wire of each leg. I chose to turn one leg each direction. Be sure to tighten the wire into the drill chuck securely and grip the other end firmly while using slow speed to twist the wire as tight as you desire. The next picture shows the result. Anneal the wire again at this point.

 Wrap the annealed wire around the ring mandrel to achieve this shape. Anneal the wire again.

 After annealing I used a planishing hammer to flatten the ends of the wire and annealed the wire. It is critical to anneal each time so you can move the wire without cracking it.

 With the wire soft again tuck the tails under the top ring.

 Now it is time to set the desired size and make sure the shank is round. Use a rawhide mallet or nylon face hammer to round up the shank. This will prevent spoiling the nice twists on the shank. A regular hammer will distort the spirals.

The ends of the annealed wire are then wrapped around the top wire and tightened by pulling with the parallel jaw pliers. Continue wrapping after annealing again. In the next picture I have wrapped one side completely and crimped the tail under the top. The other side is cut down and filed to a narrow profile to accept a pearl. Final finishing is done at this time. In this case I put the ring into a pickle pot filled with an acidic solution to remove fire scale. Then after rinsing the piece was put into a tumbler with steel shot and a soap and tumbled for an hour. Finally it was heated with a soft torch and painted with Swellegant Darkening and Green Gold Patinas. The pearl was glued on with E-6000 and a copper head pin glued in the top hole. After the glue was allowed to set for a day, I buffed the ring with a Sunshine cloth to highlight the edges.

Follow up on the angel project

 This is the final form I created from the original piece. While it is very contemporary still the original artists work is seen now highly colored.

 Starting a new project with wet clay castings of a doll that has no arms or legs and a doll with no head. First I cut off and trim the left arm to fit the waif doll.

 Next I remove the legs leaving part of the skirt in place.

 The shiny wet liquid clay on the knife is called slip. It is the glue that binds the part together.

 The right arm is added with slip showing in the join.

 Next the base is trimmed to fit up the skirt. It too is joined with slip.

 Here she is ready for finishing work after sitting for an hour to firm up.

Finally she is in the kiln ready for a second firing. Next time I think I will make her barefoot with another body and maybe add wings. I can never have too many angels.